Friday, September 26, 2008

Fruition

I am a volunteer!

Well, I've been a volunteer for a while now, but I'm an official, honest-to-goodness, been-inducted Peace Corps Volunteer. Guess I've made it to the pros,
finally.

My first week here has been interesting. It's a challenge transitioning from one host family to the other, particularly since I really, really liked my first
one. Now I get to face the fun of akward adjustment once again with my new family. For the most part they seem fairly genuine and nice. It may be a problem
when I tell them they will not be getting as much money as Peace Corps first paid them - I get the impression that most/all my salary (which, in effect, is
what PC paid them for September) is what's expected to be paid, which will not be the case. Cutting back may mean I have to/get to make and prepare food on
my own for one or two meals a day. Seeing as how I'm coddled and treated like a child for doing the most menial task (you braced a log while your 15 year old
host brother cut it!! good job!!! now here's a cookie...) this doesn't seem all that feasible right now, particularly since in Kyrgyz culture women do most
of the work (in and outside the house). But that's why I'm here, right? Sort of.

My village is fairly big, thus a good amount of people living here, as far as this country of 5 million goes. It's an odd feeling having strangers, children,
students, teachers etc. all knowing my name. I know about 10 people in my village, and I think every one of the 3-4 thousand here knows me. So much for
anonymity. It's a boon and a bane. Students calling my name out from across the hall, or constantly peaking into the teachers lounge for a good look, or
purposely using Russian when everyone knows I "speak" Kyrgyz? Bad. Every time I enter a classroom, speak, stand, or do anything inside of it, the
students all remain silent and attentive? Good.

My two counterparts are interesting as well. It will be a challenge, particularly since at the moment I don't see any opportunities to work with them on
lessons (their schedules are as follows - get up, make food/morning preparations for their family, go to work, go home, work work work at home until 11,
repeat for the next day). It will be a challenge, definately. None or very few of the students in all of my classes have books, and the books that my
counterparts use are primarily from the Soviet 80s (which, by the way, are fascinating to read - particularly the one talking about all the freedoms of
finding a job in a communist state and how people in capitalist states have to join the army of the unemployed). Nevertheless, I hope I can incorporate some
decent ideas and scrounge up a way to teach English effectively, even if it's just to motivate my counterparts and students (which is one of the biggest
problems, I've noticed).

Today (25-09) I had a complete "Holy Crap!" moment. As I'm waiting for the marshurtka to take me to a nearby village to open a bank account, a man comes up
and introduces himself - a former Russian language teacher from my school who now does something else. When he asked me what state I came from, I only had
to repeat it once because, get this, he knew it! For once someone didn't look at me like I had lobsters crawling out of my ears when mentioning Connecticut.
But, not only that, he also knew and could pronounce (in the Russified version, but still!) Hartford! But, that's not the best part. He was talking a little
about hockey, how he either played or coached, and here it is: he knew the Hartford Whalers! Holy! Not only did someone who isn't from Connecticut know
the Whalers, but I didn't even have to bring it up! In my excitement I forgot to adress him as сиз (formal you, I used the informal you, сен), so I hope that
was a mistake that can be rectified. But still, my mind is blown completely. He knew the Whalers! They haven't even existed for 11 years.

As for general stuff, things have been difficult just to the sheer transition factor. I've been reading a lot, particularly since for a good portion of the
day the electricity is turned off. My house isn't very "hang-out" friendly - places to just sit and talk are pretty much nonexistant, be it because of the
way in which rooms are situated or because everyone in the house seems to be occupied with one thing or the other (resulting in much of my time being spent
inside my room, when not working). It's also weird having my main host siblings (i.e. they are old enough to have some patience with me and I can have some
conversation with them) be my students, thus I'm always Mr. Teacher. Up until I told the vice-principal that I was uncomfortable with it, the running joke
seemed to have been that I was unmarried and thus by the end of my first year would be off in the land of love with some Kyrgyz girl (who that would be I
don't know - all the females in the village seem to be either married/older or greater than/equal to high school student aged). Right now, being in a home
with no heat is fine (particularly since I'm used to it, what with the no heat back home), but it's going to be pretty friggin' cold. I'm going to have to
splurge for a coat and boots, but could use some decent products from back home, especially since the electricity situation is so dicey.

It's not all bad though. What conversations I do have with my family are pleasant and enjoyable. One instance was particularly humorous to me - I was
helping a sister with some homework, and I got to say Canadada (in Kyrgyz a -da ending means in or at, and this text was about Canada). When I went to the
Talas library I was excstatic when I saw Jhumpa Lahiri's The Namesake (sorry for the lack of a proper title underlining/italicizing - notepad is quite limited); reading it brought back many good memories of a good friend or two (Nom!), and heck it's a good story to boot. My fellow volunteers here in Talas, while not quite all falling into what I would consider "my crowd," seem pretty good for the most part and I feel I have some good developing friendships here. The people here in my village also seem very hospitable, cordial, nice, inviting etc. (and protecting, perhaps overprotective at the moment), I just need to spend the time building a repor, getting to know people, having them get to know me, et al. It's time for some cross-cultural exchange, methinks!

Chris

Here's my latest journal entry from 18/09/08:

Things have changed so drastically for me over the past 5 months. I can hardly believe that not too long ago I was busting my hump at King's over courses I
loved (and some I didn't), or spending time at home, particularly with my sis' & nephew. Thursday was yet another gigantic transition: leaving my first
Kyrgyz family behind and being sworn in as a volunteer.

I absolutely love my first family here. My heart broke in the morning when I left my sister and brother. My brother was decked out in Red Sox clothing - his
bat, ball, and glove -- he wouldn't let my hand go as we shook hands and when he started to cry I embraced him as my brother. My sister completely shocked me
by telling me in English (she speaks very little) that she loves me and that I was the best big brother. I will always remember this gesture from her - it
had the power to shake the earth. Sadly, I then drove off in a taxi, after the farewells, refusing to look away while riding off and holding back the
choking up.

My mom and dad went to the swearing-in ceremony. Afterwards we had about an hour to talk, eat a bit, get some photos, etc. They gave me a gift which was
almost as powerful as my sister's words - a calender/planner and pen, and they had written a very nice note to me in both Kyrgyz and English. The time
finally came where I had to leave. As the announcement was made, I felt what I felt when I graduated from King's, when I saw my friends in America for the
last time, and when I departed from my family in the States - a sinking void in my heart. I said goodbye 3 or 4 times and almost lost it; my mom had tears
throughout. As I left on the marshrutka I let the sadness overtake me. They are no longer my host family - they are family, and I love them as I do my
family in America.

Thank you to everyone who put time, money, and effort into providing gifts from America. My family absolutely loved everything, and it meant the world to me,
being able to give them these gifts before I left. My last evening there will always remain with me - the happiness and sadness, and just an overall
realization that these people are my family.

Chris

Oh I gots me some needs...

Things I need:
Long Johns
Warm Winter Socks
One or two sweater-vests (to wear with my work clothes, business dress)
One or two sweaters, medium or large preferable (large tends to be too big for me, even with shrinkage)
A few undershirts, plain white shirts preferable
Good dictionary and thesaurus (I should have at least a thesaurus that I didn't pack - while that's going, try for my other books as well, i.e. the
literature anthologies etc.)
A good pair of gloves and a hat for winter, maybe some scarves as well

Things I wouldn't mind having:
Some food items, peanut butter, snack items, herbs/spices/sauces to make/season food with (i.e. basil, nutmeg, vanilla, cinnamon, parsley, paprika, ginger, cumin, ketchup, mustard of all types, bbq sauce, parmesan cheese, brown sugar, olive oil, etc. etc.) Good food items other volunteers have gotten include: clif bars, various nuts (peanuts and walnuts are common here - they get different tasty kinds like Trader Joe's), various candies (non-candy bar), cookies,
crackers, pretzles, drink mixes like gatorade. Just need to be wary of things getting crushed in a package. Tastes from home and new tastes are most welcome.

Pictures, particularly of people from back home.

Movies: Some of my favorites like Rocky, Finding Neverland, etc. from my own collection. I still haven't seen the new Batman (the only movie I've wanted to
see this past year - I've held off watching a bootleg version to get something undiluted). Don't send movies in cases - those are easy fodder to get stolen.
Unmarked boxes and decoys work best, particularly tampon boxes.

Books -
books 1, 3, 4 of the Camulod Chronicles
English class/course books, primarily grade-school level
Anything, really, that could be a source of entertainment. Electricity is off for roughly 4 hours or so every day (and rising - it's going off earlier every day) and I could use something to pass the time. I've already gone through 4 decent sized novels in the past 2 weeks. My collection of Redwall books, the Wheel of Time, Harry Potter (maybe not, those are all hardcover), would all work well. Heck, if you're feeling adventurous, you could even give me something not from my collection! Most any book is interesting, as long as it isn't a technical manual or romance novel. Fantasy is my old standby, but I'll read most any genre.

Any sort of classroom materials, dry-erase markers, erasers, logbooks, etc. Not necessary but I think they would help out a bit.
Pictures, maps (of America, the world), posters that can be used for teaching. Display materials! Songs, dances, ideas, anything.

Maybe a blanket or two. It will be pretty cold here.
If possible a decent dress jacket to be sent over - something that will go with my navy and khaki colored pants (my navy jacket is too big, don't send that)

Toothpaste: I like Crest Pro-Health: Night (in the purplish box/tube). My two tubes exploded a bit on the way to Talas; they're still usable, but I have less
of it now. At first I was adverse to having paste sent, but simply looking at all the sugar consumed here makes my teeth ache. That plus I can't be too
careful, esp. with good toothpaste (and how I get very little in the way of dental).
Razors: Decent shaving razors are hard to come by and I think I left my spare blades for my schick in CT. Definately not electric. My disposables only go so
far.
Deodarant/good smell spray - I get at most one decent wash a week. Nuff' said on that.
Stain removing products, I primarily have those pens in mind. For those times when I'm enjoying sheep eyeballs too much, there won't be enough stain remover
to help the sloppy Italian in me.


PS And oh yeah, outdoor sinks/bathrooms suck -- not because of function, but because of location at this time of the year.

PPS During the writing of this and the other document over the course of a couple days, the power has gone out every single time. Hurray for laptop batteries!

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Proximity

Hello all,

Here's my latest entry:
Preservice training is almost over - right now less than 2 weeks are left. It's hard to imagine everything I've
gone through over the past couple months. Right now I'm fairly sad because I really like my current host family
in my training village (and really hope gifts etc. that were sent get here in time for me to give them before
I leave), but I know in my heart I came to Kyrgyzstan for a different reason. It wasn't to find comfort and
coddlement from very nice people; it wasn't to hang around a bunch of Americans with narrow views; it wasn't to
escape from anything, or have a tremendously fun happy time, or have everything readily accessible and easily at
hand. If I wanted all that, I could have stayed home where I have plenty of friends and family, opportunities, etc.

I came to Kyrgyzstan because deep down I hold myself to be one thing above all else: a servant. Holding others
before myself, helping rather than enforcing, seeing the fruits of labor through others' success. Those are what I
love most in life. On the brink of becoming a Peace Corps Volunteer I can finally garner some perspective on my
situation and how it will pan out over the next couple years. Yes it's nice to have comforts, and confidants, and
all the other things that go along with a typical lifestyle. But that's not what I want, or even like. I want
others to have that - I want others to have that success, those friends, this life of theirs bettered, or that
skill honed. The world will always have problems, and although people often go about their lives concerning
themselves over their own problems, I find it's often necessary for greater action or education or involvement
before anything, no matter how big or small, can be solved. If I can do my part in any small way, anything positive
at all, then my time here will have been priceless.

It's amazing thinking of the differences between peoples. For instance, today I was on a marshurtka (van, one of
Kyrgyzstan's main public transportation methods) essentially drowning in a sea of people, sandwiched between a
drunk man and a woman tending to a sick person sitting down as five more people piled into the vehicle. In many
places this would be very strange, illegal, bad, etc. but here it's the norm. One of my most earnest beliefs is
that all people, no matter who they are or where they're born, are in essence the same, or at least very similar.
Smiles, love, family, etc. are all quite universal. It's the marshurtkas of our world that separate us - what we
grew up with was different, and we think it's better, or worse, than what other people have. But these differences
are essentially meaningless - in the end, the people on the marshurtka get home, just the same as the people on the
bus, or the people driving their car. We may eat different food, practice different religions, speak different
languages et al, but how are we truly different? In the end we're all human (and, barring some sort of
extraterrestrial contact with intelligent life), which is what really matters to me. We can be different in our
minute ways, but I believe we're all a lot more similar than we're led to believe throughout the course of our
life.

This is one basis I have built my ideology and thinking style around, and something I hold close to my heart. I
hope that throughout my service in Talas (and overall in Kyrgyzstan) that it will benefit me in my endeavours to
serve others. It's difficult to contemplate what will come, but I'm thankful that some of my perspective has
finally returned to me over these 3 months of training.

Chris


I'm quite sad right now because I'll miss the people I grew close to over these 3 months. However, as I've always believed, if we keep someone in our heart, we never truly lose them. This belief has helped me transition through the difficulties of leaving family behind in the States, and I think it will help me out in this instance as well. Family and friends are forever.

Talas will be a big challenge for many reasons, notwithstanding how some of the current volunteers act, locals perceive people, and how isolated from the rest of the country the oblast seems. I'm looking forward to the challenge, and hope to form many good relationships.

Right now it's difficult to imagine how things will pan out. Most people in the States have things like the election on their mind -- here in Kyrgyzstan our biggest concern is how the winter will play out. There are pretty major power outages throughout the country, particularly Talas and Chuy, and this could lead to an entire quarter of school being out of session. I'm not so much concerned about the power outage and heat -- what concerns me is what there will be to do during this time. In the summer, when school is out of session, many volunteers start clubs and things of that nature, which could be more difficult to accomplish during the winter. Ideas are welcome, as always!

Well, I hope everyone is doing well, and those that aren't to get better soon! All the best, and peace,

Chris

Friday, September 5, 2008

More to Come

Hello all, I have a few entries here:

So the time has finally come, where I get to visit my permanant site (Peace Corps so far seems to be one bigtransitional step after the other). Things will be a lot different for me, I believe. My host mother (though sheprefers to be called Eje, which is big sister/aunt/teacher[female]/et al) is 36, has five children, and apparentlymakes/sells clothes. The father in the family died. I feel bad because Peace Corps requires all volunteers to have their own room, so my family will be sleeping three to a room. We have a banya, which is the traditional (or common, I should say) Kyrgyz bathing method - it's essentially a very, very hot sauna.
I'm excited to go to Talas. I've considered it the land of mystery - as Americans we know very little about Kyrgyzstan, but talking to people in Kyrgyzstan, they all seem to know very little about this oblast. Volunteersalways say, "I hear it's nice, but I've never been." Locals (from the north -- there's a huge north/south rivalryin country) say it's beautiful, and has mountains and forests, but that essentially describes anyplace in Kyrgyzstan. I find it an intriguing challenge to uncover this oblast.
Right now my speaking capabilities are very limited but I can hold basic conversations. Listening, I can usuallyunderstand at least the gist of things. My new host mother (eje) uses many words I have yet to have heard (perhaps due to regional dialect differences) so that will be a challenge. I do, however, feel confident aboutthis whole prospect and look forward to getting some good work attempts in. Who knows, maybe something I do will prove useful.
Chris
Today (1-9-08) wasn't the first day of class, but it was a rather big holiday. All the primary/secondary schoolstudents were at my village's school, and they all came in their finest costumes (suit is called costume) People who are nervous about speaking in front of large crowds have absolutely nothing over this situation -1100+ eyes all staring at the only American in the village (and, most likely, the first they've ever seen) asI'm shuffled up front to be a spectacle sitting beside the center-stage panel of school director & co. Nevermindthat they had cameras (yes, video/tv cameras) rolling for this event; the pomp and circumstance was enormous, simply with the speeches and dress alone. And, oh yeah, I had to give a speech too -- so here I am, the newcomer,the oddball, the barely-speaks-Kyrgyz American, in front of one of the most elaborate ceremonies I've ever seen(and I've seen some crap, be it a Derby holiday or D.C. procession), with a thousand + native Kyrgyz speakers listening, and I have to give a speech. I've given several speeches before, and I know and can deal with the nervousness that goes along with it -- this situation was a whole new ballgame. Everyone else who spoke was up there for about 5 minutes. I had my one paragraph and lasted roughly 30 seconds to one minute. My hands were drenched and my heart just about ready to burst from my chest. But I made it, sat down, and watched the rest ofthe ceremony (while being watched in return).
Today was overall very good. I met with the two English teachers at my school (who will be my counterparts) -I was impressed, especially since neither of them have been outside of Kyrgyzstan. The school is very large, with1000 students and 70-80 teachers. Both of the English teachers are very young, in their 20s, so introducing newideas will be much easier for me. Everyone at the school was cordial and inviting, perhaps even protective, and I think things will go well.
My new host family seems pretty nice at the moment as well. My host "mother" insists that I call her Eje -- she is36, which is why Apa (mother) seems too old for her. There are 5 children in the family - 3 sisters and 2 brothers. They all seem great and the youngest two are adorable. No host father - he died, I believe. This familywill be different from the one I have in my training village, but I have no real concerns at the moment (other than communication -- things suddenly got harder once I realized my family speaks at normal Kyrgyz [or Russian,that's always a frustrating factor] speed, or have the Kazak dialectual influence. Cultural differences are alsoplaying a part for my new village -- things that were acceptable in my training village aren't acceptable (at least for now), different greetings, people looking at me like I have lobsters crawling out of my ears. You know,the typical "What is that thing walking down the street?!?" reaction.
It's hard to believe that a new school year has started and I'll be on the other side of the desks. Some would say I'm here to avoid real life. I think this is more real than anyone could get (even in the US, ha!). Here's to actual, honest work, all without getting paid!
Chris
When one comes to the Peace Corps, I'm sure there are plenty of reasons involved. Saving the world is a common mentality. Something to do after college is another. Taking a (supposedly) free international trip? Maybe. Whatever the reason, we're here and we have a job to do. I've been taking a lot of time recently to think about this, especially since I was recently in relatively close proximity to all the Talas volunteers yesterday, boththe old and new.
There are some things Peace Corps likes to overexaggerate - such as explaining the worst case scenario for virtuallyevery possible event. Some things they have are strict policy. Some things they have are not necessarily strict, but they're trying to work something into the image. Take for instance drinking in Kyrgyzstan - by all accounts prior to departure I was informed that it would be impossible to avoid drinking alcohol (particularly vodka). However, once I arrived here, I found out that avoiding the nectar of parties and toilets is not only feasible (ifa bit socially akward, especially in a former Soviet state), but in certain regards it's actually better from a social standpoint due to the Muslim population in-country. However, there is still that Russian influence, and drinks are the primary stock of just about every single store in Kyrgyzstan. It's given me some time to reflect and think on this whole drinking situation.
For those who don't know, prior to leaving to Kyrgyzstan I hadn't touched one drop of alcohol. I'm very proud of the fact that I went throughout my entire college career without touching the stuff. There are many reasons whyI didn't drink -- among them witnessing friends falter and go down dark holes due to consumption, my avid approachto peer pressure (in that it means a whole lot of nothing to me), and just attempting to be a decent role-model.After hearing what I did about Kyrgyzstan I tried some the week before I came, just so I could get an indicationas to what it was like, primarily because of all the horror stories of being unable to avoid drinking. Well, I gethere and see that I can (and, as a volunteer, am strongly encouraged to do so) avoid drinking if I so choose.
Yesterday all the volunteers in my oblast got together and had a pretty raucous party - most everyone drank, I didnot. Now, I'm not against drinking by any stretch of the imagination - I completely understand the need to blow off some steam, have a good time, enjoy something delicious, etc. But, this is a case that I think is detrimentalto our presence here. Here's a rather large group of Americans, in the middle of a public restaurant, loudly living it up in the middle of a culture that seems to admonish such behavior. It's at this point that I realize that, while perhaps in the future I may (may) drink moderately, nothing strong, and never in such a situation asto be the stupid American causing a scene, I will try my hardest not to drink throughout my service. It's something that I feel will go hand-in-hand with other policies such as dress code and code of conduct - many volunteers take those with a grain of salt, I will try to follow them as much as possible.
As a volunteer who has volunteer experience (not just study abroad experience), representative experience, andcultural exchange experience, I feel I have some ground to stand on. I've gotten flak from others for my stances,but in most instances I think they only have experience (time-wise and language-wise) in Kyrgyzstan. It's truethat as a volunteer, being one of the very, very few Americans in this country (and in my case the first in thevillage), we are constantly being monitored and scrutinized. One slip up, one dire or outrageous mistake can ruin months' worth of work and hurt a volunteer's image (which in turn hurts other volunteers and Peace Corps). So many people who are here now don't seem to realize this - complaints are often about how this or that is different, or I can't get/do this, and regard isn't given to the situation. It's impossible to step outside of theKyrgyzstan box - this is a 24 hour job, and the only way to get a real, actual break is to go to a different country or possibly go to the middle of nowhere.
It's aggrivating to have these attitudes around me - I thought that by joining Peace Corps I would be leaving insensitivity and self-centered actions behind. Instead there are people who seem to be living for the weekend, in Peace Corps. That statement just leaves me dumbfounded. I seriously hope I'm wrong, and I know thereare plenty of good people here, but this is something that's been bugging me for the longest time, ever sinceleaving Philadelphia. I came here to work, to attempt to help a community that could use new ideas to great benefit, to try showing people and organizations how to acquire resources that they could use. I came here to be a volunteer. It just doesn't seem that way to me for some people in this group, and I hope I never get called culturally insensitive by another drunk volunteer again. If need be I'll spend all my time with my community andforego visiting others.


Sorry if this last entry was a downer -- I just think people need to take time and realize that this isn't a frat party or fun special time. We're in Peace Corps.

Everything is going well now. One thing I would like to make note of: any mail being sent to me will get here much sooner if it has the Cyrillic address on it as well. Some items I have received have blocks or blanks where the Cyrillic would be; mail will get to me with just the English, but having the Cyrillic will shorten delivery time by about 2 weeks or so (from what I've experienced). Thank you, though, to everyone who has sent me mail -- I absolutely love getting news, and pictures are practically a godsend.

Well, for now I don't have much else in the way of an update. I hope everyone is doing well, and my thoughts and prayers go out to those who are not.

Peace,
Chris