Friday, January 30, 2009

One of two

Today I'm writing on pure battery power. Last night I fell asleep with the light on, so when the power came back on (at around 3 or 4 am) I went to turn it off. When I did so, the directly adjacent electrical outlet decided to explode on me -- pretty gigantic sparks were flying out of it. I had left my cell phone charger plugged in (no cell phone connected though) -- I tried unplugging it, but that just resulted in more sparks. So I made sure nothing was burning, flipped the light switch, then went to bed. Now I can see that the plastic socket protector is all melted, burnt bits of metal and plastic are covering the area, and a piece of metal connector is missing between the wiring and outlet. Fun!
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New Years Eve. Today I had the local electrician/religious dude/gets-lots-in-a-bottle guy come over and fix my socket. Hmm that doesn't sound right... Anyway, I tried it a bit on my own, and when I got shocked fiddling around with things I figured it was time I stopped and got someone who knows what they're doing. I like the guy, he's friendly enough and everything, but man -- his hands were shaking so much, he couldn't seem to focus his eyes, and he just had the air of drink about him. Needless to say, though, he did a slap-up job of things... if only he didn't have to drown in order to alleviate the pain of post-Soviet depression. But now I have access to electricity again (as in, I can use it when we have it, again), and can write! Woo.
Yesterday I went to the nearby biggish town-type... uh... town? (sorry I'm not into the whole borrough and township fad, you Pennsylvanians!) for some errands. Halfway through I get a call from my counterpart -- I'm told there's a "New Year's preparation committee starting at 2, but this is Kyrgyzstan so you don't need to be here until 3." I'm thinking 'what the heck could this be? I'm free until January 19th' and say I'll try to make it. Now, I have to explain that Kyrgyzstan does not have much, if anything, in the way of public service. Trash collection? Ha, it's called the backyard fire (and people love to burn leaves for some reason...). Clean the streets of cow poop? Hello Mr. Rain. Snow plow? Pff, just follow the path countless other cars have forged. Now, that also means nobody clears sidewalks et al, and people here have no concept of using salt to melt ice (rather, they prefer to douse their summer salads in the stuff, quite ruining the taste of tomatoes). I bust my hump, much to my students' delight, nearly every day. While I was in this town on errands, I decided to buy a pineapple for New Years. Right after I bought the beautiful and delicious fruit of my dreams, I hit a patch of black ice... on the sidewalk. I slipped and fell right on my ass. Everyone around let out quite the "Ohhhh!" and I think 'Thanks... for watching and not helping.' I try to get up, but I'm still on the black ice, so *bam* again, and another, louder "Ohhhhh!" Some kids nearby started acting out my fall. I asked them sarcastically, "Jaktabuh??" (did you like the show??) but I don't think sarcasm exists in Kyrgyzstan. Cleaner country my ass!
So I left the town around 3, opting to hang out a bit with a couple other volunteers before heading back to my village. I got back around 4 with quite possibly the most incompetent driver I've had yet. Then I went to the school, and heard what was going on before I saw it -- a party. Guess the staff was holding the New Year's party. I go in, find my counterpart (only one was here -- the more amicable one), and see that things are already quite underway. I take a seat, feeling a bit underdressed (jeans and a turtleneck, though my scarf and coat cover up most of what I wear - honestly, it's a notch above what the other men were wearing, but still...), and proceed through the party process. Since I'm no longer fresh meat, per se, I had no excuse not to do all the stupid stuff that's done at parties -- play the games, dance, give toasts, sing. I did all of the above. The games I'm used to -- just kind of go along with whatever's going on, usually letting my partner do most of what needs to be done. Toasts are always dicey since most of my speech is geared towards conversation rather than well-wishing, and I definately don't say what everyone else does. Singing I'm getting used to -- my rendition of Jingle Bells is old hat with the kids now, and ABC's was my first hit. Dancing though. Ugh. I can tolerate singing, but dancing... let it be known, for the record (Mr./Ms./Mrs. Judge), that I am white. Very white. And I cannot dance. I'm a very stiff person (hmm... again, that doesn't sound right...), my legs don't move so well, and I just have no rythm when it comes to moving my body. That, and old ejes decided to sieze the opportunity and grab me up, so when I'm not moving my hands and feet 2 centimeters at a time, I'm twirling with grandma. I would have much prefered one or two other teachers 'cause they're young, beautiful, and not creepy, but I don't think that would fly given the culture and forum. Oh, and the music... lets just say, whatever wasn't accordian was something in the line of pop. I'm a terrible, terrible dancer, and I'm letting the US down in that regard...
So, back to today. Happy New Year! It's currently 1:45 in 2009 here, 2:35 pm for you East Coasters in 2008. This is supposed to be the big holiday here -- I enjoy it just because it's quieter and less guest-intensive than the other holidays I've experienced here. A nice, quiet meal with the fam, went to go see the family friend and her family, then we all went out to let off some fireworks at midnight (along with the rest of the neighborhood). I'm just happy I got to eat pineapple. The food was standard fare party food -- lots of fruit, candy, and cookies (most of which wasn't eaten, although more was eaten - particularly by me - this time because it's with the family), some plov, sprite, coca-cola, and champaigne (which they give to the little 'uns as well, though some of my fam didn't drink - me as well - because they're being good Muslims). I also got some gifts. Let me extrapolate a bit about gifts here as well. Females have no clue what to get men here. Men have no clue what to get females here. Add in the fact that I'm an American and don't buy into cheap shiney Chinese products, or take seriously what we would consider a severe joke in the way of fashion in America, and it's a monkey wrench for the Kyrgyz gift giving system (although I do absolutely love the Kyrgyz stuff -- 4 kalpaks and one felt heart-shaped pouch, love em all). So what do I get? I get: bottles of what appears to be cologne that didn't make the cut in France - 212 On Ice, Number One, and my personal favorite President for Men; I also get a pair of socks from China, labeled in English 'Faashion Women' (double a not a typo on my part). I'm starting to miss ties, and blue balls - no wait - blue bowling balls, and gag gifts, and the usual cheap toy, bought from a bargain bin in Target or a super market, that takes more batteries than we have and lasts for 1 hour before dying, and the stocking of stuff for Spike, and the palm-full of sweaty 20 dollar bill, the great stuff that we can really use, the great stuff that wasn't asked for, the 'what the heck was this bought for' gifts, and just all the great times we have with thoughtful presents. Oh well... there's always 2010.
Anyway, to all a good night! And a Happy New Year -- it's hard to think, realize, comprehend... I'm passing the new year, a full year to be spent here, in Kyrgyzstan. Wowsers. Here's to half a year here already!
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It's been a week off. I've enjoyed the rest, but it's still a big question of what to do, what to do. My fam is probably thinking I'm a bit nuts. So far I've read a few books, started up painting again (not pictures -- little metal people), and watching my movies. I've been going through a Rocky a day -- just got finished with #4. Man, it's pretty interesting watching that particular movie here and now, esp. since I can actually read the Russian (still not sure if they're spouting gibberish most of the time when speaking Russian though -- I'm primarily learning Kyrgyz, remember). My food stash is all but gone, the only thing remaining some Christmas candy morsels. It will be an interesting week, what with no work and all. At the moment I'm perusing my iTunes in an attempt to find something my ears and soul can take in -- so far, lots of good stuff on here. Between Rock n' Country (I know, right?) I've been having a pretty good time with music.
In my copious amount of free time, I've been thinking of things not here that I could utilize. Like some shoe (or, more appropriately for my instance, boot) laces because my boots' laces are coming undone. Crackers -- you'd be surprised at how such a simple thing like a cracker doesn't really exist out here (aside from the rare trip to Bishkek, and they're expensive there!!), and how much one starts to miss the things. Hot running water... oh what I wouldn't give for that. Regular access to internet, mmhmmm. Going to the kitchen for a snack... Retreating to the warmth of inside... Having space to put stuff in, rather than stuffing things under the couch and bed and table in order to avoid a complete pigstie. Having access to anything necessary, all within a 20 minute's drive from home. Hmm. Just ponderances, nothing getting to me (at least not to a point of harm, just a point of conformity).
In two weeks' time I will be in Bishkek again. Unfortunately it won't be good and fun Bishkek -- we, that is the volunteers, will be cooped up in a hotel for the week, rather far away from what services the city has to offer. The week will be full of sessions on how to be better volunteers and all that sort of fun stuff. I'm looking forward to seeing some of my friends again and potentially taking away some useful information (though how much is a question -- I don't think PC has its head on straight with this team-teaching modus operendi); I'm not looking forward to the inevitable terror that will come from 50 someodd mostly post-college-phase people getting together in one place. Hopefully things don't get out of hand, as I believe our choice of venue is privy to banishing PC if things do. And hopefully we have some time to go out into the city, particularly since I'm one of the rare volunteers whose school will be open during winter and I actually have to go back to my village after the week's sessions are over.
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Wow. There is nothing, and I mean nothing, quite like waking up and walking into the kitchen while sheep meat is being cooked for lunch's soup. What a stinky, smelly meat! Oh my. I almost passed out -- my host eje literally walked out of the room when I went in to brush my teeth. Whew...
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For the past few days, my family has been ranting about "the ice" -- prior to "the ice" it was "Adeen Doma" or, in English, the movie Home Alone, which is apparently the big holiday movie here. Anyway, yesterday my family asked me if I wanted to go to "the ice;" half out of bemusement, half out of curiosity, I said sure. Today they ranted again and again during breakfast and lunch, and after lunch we went to, "the ice." Apparently "the ice" means sledding, although true to the nomenclature they do it on an icy hill rather than snow. Now, in America kids have their nice blow-up tubes, plastic sleds, tobbogans etc. Here, kids take a cushion, stuff it in a plastic bag (albeit a big, strong plastic bag), and go to town. There's also the plank with nails nailed down into it, fastened somehow to a small metal sled/sleigh frame, but those seem a bit harder to come by. Now, to get to "the ice" we had to cross over a small brook/creek (deemed river by the Kyrgyz); the bridge: a felled, icy, smooth and round tree... not what you would call the most safe or reliable means of traversing water. The hill also ended at said brook, so some e-brake action is necessary if you don't want to catch hypothermia and die. However, it's still all fun and the kids had a great time -- my knees didn't feel up to the task after my 2nd try, though having not sledded in probably over 8 years now it was a good time. I'm not so sure about my family's claim that it's better at night -- granted there are the stars and moon, making it beautiful, but it's a helluva lot colder, you can't see, and there's all sorts of things that could go wrong. Oh well, glad to know they enjoy winter here.
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So I have here some pictures. They might need some explaining. First off, I've been a bit bored this week, so take that into account, please. The blown-up electrical socket is self explainable, esp. if you read my most recent first blog paragraph. The cologne and socks are part of my mystifying New Year's gifts , I'm as perplexed as you all are. Also explained in he blog.
Now, as you may or may not know, pineapple is my favorite fruit (although I have had mango on the brain... uh, hope that doesn't sound wrong, esp. for you SNL watchers). My mind walked up a wall and did the "woo-woo-woo" dance (Homer fans, anyone?) when I first saw the fruit available in the bazaar. Less so exciting was finding out the price -- by far the most expensive fresh fruit available. But, since it was New Year's, I bought one. And it was delicious! But, I just had to capture the moment. And to commemorate the occassion, I took a picture of my baby... but that just wasn't enough. I had to make a ridiculous excited face to go along with it, to give it my stamp! So, here's to my favorite fruit. Pineapple!
The dancing picture is really, really strange. This was how my school celebrated New Year's. For at least two weeks, the kids prepared dance sessions and singing and this whole procession (meanwhile, they didn't really do much work, woo...). Then on the day before New Year's Eve, they held this gigantic marathon event (gigantic for Kyrgyzstan village) that lasted from, I believe, 11 am to 4 or 5 pm. I didn't know what the heck was going on, but my eje wanted some pictures. So I stopped by the school for a few minutes to see what was going on. All the kids are dressed up as who-knows-what -- princesses, fairies, belly-dancers, zorro, spiderman... it was like Halloween, only without the candy. But, they're not just all running around the school. Oh no. In the gymnasium the main event is going on. So I walk in there, and there's more ejes than I can shake a stick at seated around the place waiting to see their kid or students or whomever. There's a big Christmas Tree on a table in the middle of the gym, with balloons strung up across the ceiling. Each form is called out individually, so 10 A gets its own turn, then 10 B, 10 V, etc. Each form gets something like 2-5 songs to perform to, and it's essentially just the girls doing anything -- the boys just stand in line being zorro or whatever. But, that's not all! Santa Claus and his... uh... granddaughter, I believe it is (although she seemed more a mistress...) walked around the place lording over everything. Santa had this pretty big staff/scepter/beating stick thing, with boas wrapped around it. Why? No clue. But that's not the best. Santa basically walked around the entire time, sort of dancing to the typical Kyrgyz pop that all sounds the same and has the same beat, banging his staff. He then randomnly stops and bellows out (if you've seen Japanese samurai flicks, it was soooo a Japanese shogun guttural 'Ohhhh") then speaks in same said tone. It's like he's king! I couldn't understand it, and I have no idea what any of it had to do with Santa, but damn it was funny. And interesting. Santa, lording over these kids, ruling his domain, semi-dancing with his pimp-cane, and randomnly bellowing out commands and dictates. Ha! No ho ho ho's, though if I recall correctly there was a bought of laughter, possibly a ha ha ha...

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